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 The
temple of Lord Jagannath ('Lord of the Universe') at Puri is one of
the most sacred pilgrimage spots in India, one of the four abodes (dhamas)
of the divine that lie on the four directions of the compass. The
present temple structure was built in the twelfth century by the
Ganga king, Chodagangadeva, replacing an earlier structure which
probably dated to the tenth century.
Long before one reaches Puri, the 214 feet (65 meters) spire of the
temple can be seen towering over the countryside. This visual
dominance is symbolic of the influence which the temple commands
over almost every aspect of life in Puri. The huge temple compound,
each side of which measures 650 feet (some 200 meters), is
surmounted with a 20 foot (6 meters) wall. Within the compound is a
city, or, more accurately, a universe unto itself. With 6000 direct
temple servitors, a temple kitchen which feeds 10,000 people daily
(and some 25,000 on festival days), and a central deity who has
become the focus of religious life throughout Orissa, the Jagannath
temple is truly an institution unique in the world.
Until recently, almost the entire temple was
covered in white plaster, so much so that European sailors in
previous centuries used it as a navigation point, referring to it as
the 'white pagoda' (in contrast to the 'black pagoda' of Konark,
further up the coast). Scholars, however, were long puzzled by the
plain facade on this holiest of holy temples, and wondered why it
was untouched by Orissa's rich sculptural heritage. The answer was
found in 1975, when archaeologists first began removing the plaster,
and found that the sculpture underneath indeed rivals that of the
other masterpieces of Orissan temple art. The best guess as to the
reason for applying the plaster originally is that an eighteenth
century ruler decided that this would be a way to protect the temple
from the ravages of the salty sea air. Succeeding rulers continued
the practice. As the old plaster is being removed, archaeologists
are also repairing the corroded iron dowels in the original
structure, and replacing broken stones with new ones. Finally, a
clear, thin coating is being applied to the entire structure, to
preserve it for the centuries to come.
Because of the temple's intense religious
importance and hallowed traditions, entrance is forbidden to
non-Hindus.
To have a good view of the temple and its
compound, visitors are welcome to ascend to the roof of the
Raghunandan Library which is across the street.
 In
the bazaar area surrounding the temple, dozens of shops display and
sell images of the central temple deity, Lord Jagannath, presented
in a trinity with his 'brother' Balbhadra and his 'sister' Subhadra.
The pervasive quality of the Jagannath cult will be seen when
travelling in other parts of Orissa, where the distinctive image of
Jagannath appears with great frequency. Even to the non-religious
eye, the image is fascinating, perhaps because of the unlikely
combination of the endearing, charming form with an undeniable sense
of power.
Even the non-Hindu visitor to Puri will feel
some of the power of this throbbing pilgrimage center. The bazaar
streets immediately surrounding the temple are filled with activity
and bustle, but it is all infused with a palpable sense of
gentleness and good spirit. Walk around the bazaar in the early
evenings just as the lights are coming on. (Don't worry, your taxi
or rickshaw driver will keep an eye on you, and appear like
magic when you are ready to leave). Look up to the magnificent tower
of Jagannath towering over everything, surmounted by the flag of
Vishnu flying in the breeze. Gaze at the faces of the pilgrims
entering or leaving the temple, inhale the scents of incense mixed
with the tantalizing sizzles of frying sweets and snacks, and just
let your feet take you where they may. Even the most secular-minded
of visitors are bound to feel that they, too, have embarked on a
kind of pilgrimage to a uniquely special place.
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